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Delphos gown : ウィキペディア英語版 | Delphos gown
The Delphos gown was a finely pleated silk dress first created in about 1907 by Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871–1949) and made until about 1950. It was inspired by, and named after, a classical Greek statue, the Charioteer of Delphi. Since the 1970s these gowns have been desirable and collectable pieces of vintage clothing, with one selling for a world record price of $10,000 in December 2001. ==History==
Working out of a 13th-century Venetian palazzo, Fortuny, a Spanish-born artist turned textile designer, produced garments that the novelist Marcel Proust declared "faithfully antique but markedly original". The "Delphos" was a deliberate reference to the chiton of ancient Greece and meant to be worn without undergarments, since the chiton was itself a form of underwear, a radical suggestion during the early years of the 20th century.〔 Fortuny became famous for his pleated dresses, the "Delphos" and the related "Peplos".〔(【引用サイトリンク】url=http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80095215 )〕 The exact method of pleating was a closely guarded secret involving heat, pressure and ceramic rods, which has never been replicated.〔"Mariano Fortuny: Dress (2001.702a)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/2001.702a (October 2006)〕 On both types of dresses, glass Murano beads are strung on a silk cord along each side seam. The beads serve a functional purpose as well as being decorative, as they weigh down the lightweight silk of the garment to ensure a smooth fit enhancing the natural, uncorseted human form beneath. The construction of the Delphos became its own decoration.〔 Although the "Delphos" eventually became formal wear, with Lauren Bacall wearing a vintage red Delphos to the 1978 Oscars, it was originally intended as informal clothing or a tea gown for wearing solely in the privacy of the home.〔〔Clare Suaro, (''"From the Collection: Dress by Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo"'' )〕 Delphos gowns were imported into Paris by the couturier Paul Poiret, and the fashion house Babani which sold them to actresses such as Eleonora Duse.〔(【引用サイトリンク】url=http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O362552/delphos-dress-mariano-fortuny/ )〕
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